Sanary-sur-Mer is a Mediterranean town on the Var coast of Provence, set around a sheltered bay between Toulon and Bandol. Its identity is closely tied to its fishing harbor, where traditional Provençal boats known as pointus remain an important feature. The waterfront is surrounded by narrow streets, small squares, cafés, and colorful façades, while beaches and wooded hills extend beyond the town center. The harbor remains a working part of the community, with fishermen bringing in their catch and selling fish directly from stalls along the quays.
Sanary’s history is reflected in the Tour de Sanary, a well-preserved medieval defensive tower overlooking the harbor, and the Saint-Nazaire church with its distinctive Provençal bell tower. The town also has an important literary and artistic history. Sanary became a place of exile for German-speaking writers and artists who opposed Nazism, earning recognition for its role as a refuge for intellectuals. Today, plaques and cultural sites around the town recall this period of literary exile, while local Provençal traditions remain visible in markets, festivals, traditional boats, and village life.
The harbor forms the center of Sanary’s waterfront, with more than 100 traditional boats, including pointus that preserve older forms of Mediterranean fishing craft. Portissol Beach lies a short distance from the center in a sheltered bay, while the Gros Cerveau massif rises inland and provides walking routes through Mediterranean vegetation. The coastline also offers opportunities for boating, diving, paddleboarding, and excursions to nearby islands. Around the historic center, the Tour de Sanary provides views across the town and bay, while the waterfront remains a useful starting point for exploring the surrounding coast.
Sanary’s markets are an important part of its local food culture. The daily market near the port features fruit and vegetables, cheeses, fish, shellfish, flowers, and regional products, while fishermen may sell their fresh catch directly from the quays. The larger Wednesday market spreads around the port and Allées d’Estienne d’Orves, with more than 300 vendors. Regional specialties include olive oil, local honey, nougat, seafood, and cade, a Provençal preparation made from chickpea flour. These markets connect Sanary’s maritime traditions with the agricultural and culinary traditions of Provence.